Few restaurants can claim to be as old as a country and serve a dish even older than the country’s Constitution. Pindi in Pandara Market is one such eatery that finds a place in the living archives of the capital’s gastronomic history.
Its origins lie, of course, in the famed food streets of Rawalpindi, in present-day Pakistan. From there, in the violent wake of the Partition, came Kasturi Lal Wadhwa, then barely 20 years old, to Delhi. Having witnessed, but fortunately escaped, the worst of the hatred that ripped the country apart, the young man — who had in Pindi tried his hand at routine jobs — decided to turn to his interest in food for succour and income. Setting up a cart on the India Gate lawns, he sold Pindi chana and kulcha for an anna or two. “He was passionate about feeding people,” says his grandson Anuj Wadhwa, one of the two third-generation Pindi restaurant scions.